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The House of Soviets in Kaliningrad.
Photo by Frédéric Chaubin, from "CCCP: Cosmic Communist Constructions Photographed."
The architecture of the Eastern Bloc—a conundrum of impossible
complexity, or at least that's what it looks like judging from the daily
view of my collection of coffee table books. Yes, that's right, coffee
table books. The recent glut of art volumes devoted to Soviet
architecture may be surprising to anyone who previously thought "Soviet
architecture" had about as much to do with "art" as "Soviet leaders" had
to do with "glamour." Yet here is a whole bookshelf to contradict that
view. There's Taschen's CCCP: Cosmic Communist Constructions Photographed, Hatje Cantz's Socialist Modernism, Monacelli's The Lost Vanguard: Russian Modernist Architecture 1922-1932, Roma's Spomenik (not, in fact, a sequel to Rango) and, the most euphoniously titled of them all, Jovis's Modernism In-Between: The Mediatory Architectures of Socialist Yugoslavia.
These are not your parents' dour architecture monographs, complete
with such entries as "On the problems of developing the center of
Kishinev" or "Approaches to using the vernacular in Tashkent and Navoi"
(real items from a 70s-era release) but are lavish, glossy, and
handsome. One of these volumes was released in 2007, the rest date from
within the last two years. What does this all mean? What have we learned
from this publishing spree? Well, either quite a lot, or possibly
nothing, but bear with me.
The 1975 Soviet film The Irony of Fate, a Russian favorite for
Christmas season viewing to this day, boasts a Twelfth Night-like plot
that turns on the anodyne similarity of Soviet housing. The narrator
opens, mordantly, "In the past when people found themselves in a strange
city they felt lost and lonely. Everything around was different:
streets and buildings, even life. But now it has changed. A person comes
to another city and feels at home there." In a landscape of bland
uniformity, "can you name a city that hasn't got First Garden Street,
Second Suburban Street, Third Factory Street, First Park Street? Second
Industrial Street, Third Builders Street?" This similarity in design,
not to mention the standardization of furniture and locks, results in
our drunken protagonist deposited in the right apartment on "Third
Builders Street", but in the wrong city, and romantic comedy misadventures follow. (In fairness, It's a Wonderful Life
must look like a pretty odd holiday ritual to the average resident of
Novosibirsk as well.) In any case, there's no denying that most Soviet
construction was oppressively dull and derivative; in this case, Soviet
censors didn't even seem to bother to try.
Milan Kundera wrote, in The Unbearable Lightness of Being, "in
the realm of totalitarian kitsch, all answers are given in advance and
preclude any questions." Questions, as we have seen, such as "am I in
the wrong city?" and "are you my wife?" but this is immaterial.
Totalitarian kitsch, in the realm of architecture, poses innumerable
questions once the core of the totalitarian has passed. Architecture in
totalitarian societies unquestionably constitutes an exercise of power;
the question stands how effective this exercise remains once that rule
has passed, and whether the nature of a given totalitarianism is
indissolubly bound up in the stone, concrete, and steel to which it gave
form. Some particularly egregious symbols are demolished, but far more
often, buildings are simply repurposed and assume some new identity. The
Reich Chancellery was demolished, with excellent cause; but the
Luftwaffe headquarters now houses the German Finance Ministry. Few
today, outside of perhaps any especially melodramatic Greek circles,
would think that this amounts to any sort of continuity of purpose.
Some wish to expunge the physical memory of totalitarian rule as
fully as possible; others believe in retaining some memory of the humane
strivings of these former socialist states, that would design and build
a puppet theater, or a "children's health resort basin" or countless
other facilities for public recreation. These debates continue. There
are, of course, far more buildings that many would like to see
demolished, and this not because of the buildings' latent symbolic
power, but simply because they are godawful monstrosities. But, as you
may have heard, money is not something in which the former Eastern bloc
is generally much awash, and so they stand.
Up till now, though, we've been talking about the miserable mean of
Eastern bloc architecture. The picture looks quite different when you
shift your attention to the shining peaks of the style. Author Frédéric
Chaubin, who wrote the Taschen volume, calls these buildings "aesthetic
outsiders in an ocean of gray." And it becomes far simpler to conclude
that, all questions of the historio-political, post-syncretic mediatory,
and polythechnic-institutional aside, that this cream of Eastern Bloc
construction is simply awesome.
Let's start with the most otherworldly. As Chaubin notes in his introduction to Cosmic Communist Constructions Photographed,
"Anyone's first trip to New York always comes with a feeling of déjà
vu, as if one were walking onto the set of a movie seen a hundred times.
In contrast, there are vestiges of the Soviet Union that seem like
backdrops to movies that never hit the screen, because they were never
made." This, if it seems possible, decidedly understates the visual
impact of the architectural legacy of the later decades of the Soviet
Union and associated states. Eastern Sci-Fi cinema, as superb as its
product and settings often were, clearly neglected the treasures in its
own backyard.
The architecture facility at the Polytechnic Institute of Minsk. Photo by Frédéric Chaubin.
The Druzhba sanatorium. Photo by Frédéric Chaubin.
There's the architecture facility at the Polytechnic Institute of
Minsk, a mass whose composition is so kinetic that it's easy to suspect
that its treads are simply below your line of sight. There's the Druzhba
Sanatorium, where hillside columns support a cog-like rounded center,
teethed with oversailing balcony pods. The CIA and Turkish Military
suspected it to be a rocket launcher; I suspect it to be fun. Or the
Ukrainian Institute of Scientific and Technological Research and
Development, for which there's really no description other than it looks
like a flying saucer landed square on top of a Kiev building and that
the scientists rejoiced in the convenient extra lab space.
The Ukrainian Institute of Scientific and Technological Research and Development. Photo by Frédéric Chaubin.
The Yugoslavian monuments known as "Spomenik" are another incomparable Eastern entry.
Two photos from Jan Kempenaers' Spomenik.
Then there's the Chemnitz Stadthalle in the former East Germany,
which boasts a honeycomb-esque latticework that seems designed for the
easy ingress of DDR winged supermen.
I once described the former Georgian Ministry of Highways
as most resembling an abandoned game of Jenga, and I still can't think
of any other means to remotely hint at its wonderful frame. Or, turning
somewhat back to earth, there's the Soviet Embassy in Havana, a tropical
campanile for the Brezhnev era.
The Soviet embassy in Cuba. Photo by Frédéric Chaubin.
Much earlier construction bears a closer relation to recognized
international vernaculars, which is to say that it still often stands at
the crisp edge of innovation in the 1920s and 1930s. The early Soviet
state recruited from the cream of modernist architects; there's Le
Corbusier's Centrosoyuz Building in Moscow and Erich Mendelsohn's Red
Banner Textile Factory in St. Petersburg, which are each striking.
The Centrosoyuz Building, in Moscow. Photo by Richard Pare, from The Lost Vanguard.
The Red Banner Textile Factory in St. Petersburg. Photo by Richard Pare.
Even more interesting is a similar realm of domestically designed constructivist architecture such as Ivan Fomin's NKPS Building,
a columnar block given raw energy through a sleek window-banded corner
tower. Or the Gosprom building in Kharkov, a majestic multi-tiered
wonder balanced vertically by glazed stairwell window columns and
horizontally by a series of walkways staggered across intervening
streets (also to be found in the decidedly non-sci-fi cinema of
Eisenstein's The General Line).
The Gosprom Building, in Kharkov, Ukraine. Photo by Richard Pare.
Or the Narkomfin building in Moscow,
which resembles a more rough-hewn version of Erich Mendelsohn's Rudolf
Mosse Publishing Company building in Berlin, in which a modern-styled
turret complete with ribbon windows is balanced by an opposite rounded
corner—only without any windows, and giving way three stories from the
top of the structure to the rectilinearity of the rest of the building.
Given the sheer size of the former Eastern bloc, it might seem not
surprising that the area would have generated at least some architecture
of consequence and yet you'll find notably small sections on the Warsaw
Pact or non-affiliated communist states in most architectural atlases
or surveys released at a point when C.C.C.P. was more than a Taschen
title pun. There's little question that the planned economy was good at
little, and still less, in the aggregate, at architecture, but recent
publishing has made clear that it too hit breathtaking heights of
experiment and form. No matter which airport you're in, or how much
Stolichnaya you've had, you'll never mistake any of these fantastically
distinctive structures for Third Builders Street.
Updating a cultural canon, in any form, is an endless battlefield due
to our persistent tendencies, 1. to create ever more art and 2. to
fail, just as rapidly, to agree on its value. Witness debates about
revised editions of any literary anthology, or, say, the National Film
Registry. At times worthy works receive just recognition; other times,
age seems all that’s required to give mediocre works the gloss of
historical grandeur. But let’s not get off track discussing Sex, Lies and Videotape vs. Forrest Gump.
Rarely is the navigation of this question of aesthetic value more
difficult and commercially charged than in architecture. After all, one
needn’t tear down The Thin Man in order to add Silence of the Lambs, nor did the Wizard of Oz’s landmarking entail that Taxi Driver
couldn’t be built. Architecture sometimes involves exactly these
either/or choices, though, and the increasing debates over the aesthetic
merits of Brutalism have found multiple flashpoints in recent months,
from Chicago to Baltimore to Minneapolis to Oklahoma City to Goshen, New
York.
Brutalism. It doesn’t exactly skip off of the tongue, does it? I know
plenty of educated people for whom “Brutalism” is simply shorthand for
any recent architecture that they happen to dislike. Here "Brutalism"
fulfills the same role as "jam bands" as a shorthand category for
sweeping disdain. It's be tempting to attribute the misfortunes of
Brutalist architecture to semantics; after all, no other 20th-century
form of architecture—the International style, Constructivism,
Postmodernism—directly conjours images of violence and force, unless you
have a particularly paranoiac attitude towards any sort of contemporary
theory. And yet this doesn’t quite explain away the recent difficulties
of Brutalist architecture. There are, of course, accurate aesthetic
objections—bare concrete, however improperly labeled, doesn’t inspire
much popular enthusiasm. Look to any list of “ugliest buildings” or
“buildings to demolish now” and you’re sure to find multiple Brutalist
structures represented. The Trellick Tower in London was said to be the
inspiration for J.G. Ballard’s novel High Rise, in which society
breaks into conflict, chaos, and dog-eating amidst in a self-contained
concrete tower mass. Ian Fleming titled a villain after that building’s
architect, Erno Goldfinger. That doesn’t happen to Frank Gehry.
Trellick Tower in London
Despite a pronounced lack of public enthusiasm for Brutalism, it's
financial and planning concerns, not aesthetic ones, that have
temporarily saved or at least postponed the destruction of several
recently threatened structures. In April, Paul Rudolph’s water-damaged
Orange County Government Center, which is located on Main Street in
Goshen, New York, was preserved in an 11-10 vote
of the Orange County Legislature. And the votes for saving the building
seemed significantly inspired by doubts as to whether demolishing the
building and constructing a replacement would actually prove cheaper
than repairing the facility. Mayor Rahm Emanuel has been cagey
about preserving the Bertrand Goldberg-designed Prentice Women’s
Hospital, but seems unwilling to approve Northwestern University’s plans
to demolish the facility until there’s a concrete indication of what
might replace it. In Minneapolis, the city is currently conducting
fundraising for a thorough redesign of the Peavey Plaza in downtown,
which the American Society of Landscape Architects recognized, in 1999,
as one of the most significant examples of landscape architecture in the
U.S. The John Johansen-designed Morris Mechanic Theatre in Baltimore,
for which there is an extant replacement proposal, has drawn criticism
from the city’s Urban Design and Architecture Review Panel for its
proposal to locate a three-story retail building, and not a tower, along
a principal street. In each case, renovation seems to have been
dismissed peremptorily as impossible. Not helping, in the case of the
Orange County Government Center, was the seeming inflated costs of the
renovation: The cost estimates for refurnishing the building, some
observers pointed out, were some $24 million higher than the actual
costs of renovating the structurally quite similar (the architect was
the same) University of Massachusetts-Dartmouth library.
The Morris Mechanic Theatre in Baltimore
Financial questions aside, the question of what would replace these
structures is vital. Though it's difficult to deny that Brutalism has
its flaws. The term, derived from the French word for raw concrete
"Béton brut," came, via some gradual tweakings of meaning, to encompass a
range of 50s to 70s architecture granting a central role, obviously, to
unfinished concrete, but also to abstract geometries, and the frank
exposure of functional architectural elements. After sleek
International-style modernism, Brutalism represented a turn towards a
very different sort of functionalism, often dripping with overhangs,
podiums, and articulations designed to enhance its physical immensity
(for more on this, check out this recent article).
These plans often achieved a sure monumentalism, but also often left
humans in the literal dust, in lifeless plazas from Boston City Hall to
Dallas City Hall to L’Enfant Plaza that made no attempt to accommodate
the pedestrian. And, as with any genre of building, some Brutalist
buildings have been well consigned to the wrecking ball—few would argue that cities haven't benefited from some necessary pruning of the Brutalist past.
The Orange County Government Center in Goshen, New York
Its proposed replacement
In these current disputes, however, the briefest look at replacement
plans confirms that demolition proposals would scrap truly intriguing
buildings in favor of thoroughly anodyne replacements. The projected
replacement for the Orange County Government Center resembled nothing so
much as a collegiate neo-Georgian physical sciences building. The
proposed residential tower replacement for Baltimore's Morris Mechanic
Theater looks like any dozen recent American mid-sized glass towers, its
mild articulation of façade about as distinctive as the idea of, well…
living in a condo in a glass tower downtown. Not to mention countless
cases of demolition in which no replacement has yet materialized. The
former New Haven Coliseum site sits still vacant. The Leeds
International Pool site is now occupied by a parking lot. As Paul
Goldberger recently pointed out in Vanity Fair,
Northwestern University owns a vacant plot of land across the street
from the Prentice Women’s Hospital, and yet, without an extant plan for
either site, it insists on demolition.
The principal frustration in all of these recent cases is that the
architecture of each of these buildings is unquestionably more inventive
and even fanciful than most architecture that directly preceded them,
let alone other Brutalist peers. Brutalism enabled plenty of bare walls;
but it also birthed some structures that, if you can get beyond the
ready wince at the idea of scraping a knee on them, are unquestionably
playful. Naturally, there are blank concrete walls; there are also
countless intriguing geometries; the Mummers Theater in Oklahoma
is a riot of catwalk-linked cubes at varying orientations and
elevation; the Orange County Government Center is a lively
spilling-forth of windows and canopies, and the Prentice Women’s
Hospital is a space-age cloverleaf whose lower portion accordingly looks
more like a launch pad than a podium. In all of these cases the
argument for preservation is clearly strong, having more to do with the
worth of the buildings than any rote hostility to progress or an
eggheaded taste for retaining every drop of Brutalist ugliness.
Boston's South End
1973 photo of Boston City Hall Plaza
There’s little doubt that the preservationist community, as valiant
and lonely as its efforts to save Brutalism have been, has made its case
in ways that often seem rather hard to swallow. Frequent comparisons to
Victorian architecture, and the fact that it too was once regarded with
broad distaste, seem justly out-of-touch. No one, in fifty years, or
ever, is going to stand in Boston City Hall Plaza and gain the feeling
of cozy preservationist joy that they find in Boston’s Victorian South
End—any more than, to go back to our beginning, audiences are ever going
to find a historical moment at which the now 70-year-old Moses und Aron sounds about as fun as Aida
does—nor should they. Brutalism should be addressed, and preserved on
its own terms, which are unquestionably more difficult than earlier
examples of preservation, although arguably just as worthy.
These terms, for forthrightly evaluating the legacy of Brutalism, are
almost invariably civic; nearly all of the structures at present risk
are public in purpose and function. The residential legacy of Brutalism
has weathered time most poorly for obviousreasons.
In the realm of public architecture, however, whether one cares for
Brutalism or not, it’s difficult to assert that since its demise we’ve
devised much better molds for civic architecture. Occasional commissions
might result in a distinctive product, but for the most part we’ve
arrived at an age, as Nathan Glazer has convincingly argued,
when the scale of necessary public construction, and its attendant
cost, has foreclosed on any older, more universally admired models for
building. Given the clear mediocrity of likely replacements, to discard
wholesale the legacy of a distinctive moment in architectural history
out of a feeling of spite seems capricious.
I’m personally very fond of much Brutalist architecture, and find in
its mass and geometry an unmistakable majesty, but I recognize that this
is hardly a popular proposition, save on some awesome Tumblr accounts.
There’s no doubt that Brutalism remains associated with the very worst
of top-down mass-planning tendencies in American cities, of the sort
that bulldozed vibrant neighborhoods into arid plazas. We’ve happily
discarded the notion that anyone wants to live in a Brutalist city, but
to then efface any trace of Brutalism is no sort of urban progress. Proposals for intriguing adaptive reuse are in no short supply;
let’s not throw away a physical era that seems mildly at odds with our
own. Remember, the alternative isn’t likely to be something interesting:
it’s likely to be something strenuously banal.
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A
new building on London's skyline nicknamed the Walkie Talkie has been
blamed for melted car parts due to the intense sunlight reflected from
its glass exterior. In a broadcast for Sky News
one reporter proves that it is possible to fry an egg in the reflected
sunlight. Developers say they are working to rectify the problem.
Two ETH researchers from the Institute for Technology in
Architecture have created an immersive space from artificial sandstone
with a 3D printer. The work is currently on display in Orléans,France
Franziska Schmid
The immersive
space created by the two ETH researchers covers a surface of 16 m2
and is more than three metres high, and its organic, decorative design gives it
the semblance of a gothic cathedral’s façade. So it is no coincidence then that
the developers decided to call their project Digital Grotesque. “Anyone printing
architectural elements does not want to merely copy an existing idea; with
these delicate structures, we show that the scope for designing a digitally
developed wall is almost limitless,” explains Dillenburger. Digital Grotesque combines
technology and nature in a very novel way: first, the project shows how computational
design and additive manufacturing can work together, and, second, it draws on
nature when it comes to material and form. This means that the project fits perfectly
into the Archilab 2013 exhibition currently running at the FRAC Centre in
Orléans, France, which is dedicated to the “Naturaliser l’architecture” theme.
Complex geometry with
millions of facets
The project
appears playful and weightless, but is neither on closer inspection. The design,
which cannot be drawn by hand or generated by computer software such as CAD, was
created from highly complex customised algorithms developed by the ETH
researchers behind Digital Grotesque. A simple starting shape was
mathematically refined and geometrically enhanced until a complex geometry with
more than 260 million facets emerged. The surface details push the boundaries
of human perception as the intricate shapes evolved organically with micrometric
precision.
Whereas assembly
took only a day and printing just a month, the development of the design
required more than a year. “The difficult part was keeping track of the
emerging shapes by using the algorithms, and designing creative and surprising effects,” says Dillenburger.
Furthermore,
Digital Grotesque is not light by any means – the special large-scale 3D printer
produced more than 11 tonnes of artificial sandstone for the work. The printer is
normally used to manufacture casting moulds for large, complex metal parts such
as engine blocks, which are then grouted with metal. The ETH architects came up
with the idea of using this technology to build architectonic parts. The
printer applies a layer of sand which is subsequently fixed in the places where
the shape should emerge. Thus, the printer applies the sand layer by layer
until the entire printing space is filled with sand. Any excess sand is then
vacuumed off and the finished sandstone element cleaned.
Countering
standardisation
The ETH
architects used the process to produce 64 individual blocks that they then joined
together to form the space. Although this – yet experimental – production process
still requires quite some effort and expenses, Michael Hansmeyer and Benjamin Dillenburger
believe strongly in its future. Dillenburger is convinced that it has crucial
advantages over the industrial mass production that is the norm today: “The
project counters standardisation in modern architecture with a new architectural
language that is very specific. 3D printing is very precise and efficient, but
it also enables building parts to be individually designed.”
Digital
Grotesque can be seen at the FRAC Centre in Orléans, France, until 2 February 2014.
With the 1992 Summer Olympics in Barcelona that turned the world's
attention to Spain, famed buildings throughout the country gave an
architectural degree cachet and allure. Norman Foster’s Torre de
Collserola and I.M. Pei's World Trade Center, both in Barcelona, and
Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum of Bilbao gave aspiring architects hope
for lucrative salaries and the potential for rock-star status.
But
alongside dreams came a glut of architects, and a country that went on a
building spending spree – both on iconic public works and private
apartment complexes.
As the country remains mired in economic
crisis, in no small part because of a popped housing bubble, Spain faces
an unemployment rate of over 25 percent. It’s not a bright job market
for any Spaniard, but perhaps no one has been more impacted than the
nation's architects, who have scrambled for Plan B or left the country
all together.
Sees architects launch 'micro-interventions' in one of the
capital's oldest neighbourhoods. But are their good intentions having
the right effect?
A plastic fan whirrs above a mountain of tripe, keeping hungry flies
away, while pancakes sizzle on a hotplate across the street. A tricycle
cart laden with coal careers around a corner, narrowly missing an
elderly resident taking his caged songbird out for a stroll, while a
construction worker sits on the corner, slurping noodles from a bag. It
could be any other day in the hutongs of Beijing's Dashilar neighbourhood, but this week something is different.
Down the lane, a cloud of golden discs erupts from the rooftop of one
courtyard house, spilling out to form a canopy above the street.
Coloured concrete stools dot the roadside, while giant cushions shaped
like roast duck and fresh sushi fill a shop window. A taxi trike
trundles down the road, providing not transport but a mobile logo-design
service. Beijing Design Week (BJDW) has arrived, and it's brought the “pop-up” concept to one of the Chinese capital's oldest communities.
“We see these projects as a kind of urban acupuncture,” says Beatrice
Leanza, the Italian director of this year's festival, who has worked in
Beijing's contemporary art world for the last 10 years. “We are
proposing micro-interventions in the area's empty buildings as tests for
what could happen here.”
As part of the Dashilar programme – one of BJDW's three hubs across
the city – two derelict courtyard houses have been taken over by Zhang
Ke of Standard Architecture,
who has built a clustered treehouse structure of glass-fronted rooms in
the open courts, accessed by a series of ladders and ledges, that poke
up above the rooftops. With crisp planes of plywood limboing between
century-old beams, it is a prototype for how the site could be
developed. Zhang describes it as “ultra-small scale social housing
within the limitations of super-tight traditional hutong spaces,” which
would be part of a mixed-use scheme with restaurants, bookstores and
bars.
A few doors down, the golden fabric discs signal a proposal by the young Beijing studio, People's Architecture Office,
for a “courtyard plug-in” – a plan to insert prefabricated living units
into existing houses, leaving the original structures intact. With
plumbing, heating, insulation and wiring built-in, the modules would
require minimal excavation to bring the leaky, draughty buildings up to
habitable standards. The trial project on this site will see these pods
bring a library for the local community and a startup business
incubator.
In any other context, such installations might not be remarkable,
part of the current trend for “meanwhile” uses on vacant sites. But what
comes as a surprise is to learn that these projects have been initiated
and endorsed by the municipal government – which only a few years ago
had the entire district in the sights of its bulldozers.
“There has been a radical shift in the perception of how this
neighbourhood should be developed,” says Neill Gaddes, a New Zealand
architect who for the last three years has worked for Beijing Dashilar
Investment Limited (BDI), a subsidiary of the state-owned Guang An
Holding, tasked with upgrading the area. “There is a real push towards
improvements and adaptive reuse, rather than wholesale demolition and
rebuild.”
The shift has been spurred in part by the disaster that is all too
visible just a few blocks east. In the run-up to the 2008 Olympic Games,
a vast swathe of Qianmen, a thriving commercial district for the last
500 years, was razed and replaced by an inflated Disneyfied version of itself, a process that saw local businesses forcibly displaced by big-name brands dressed in pastiche facades.
Extending outside the old city walls, south of Qianmen gate, in a
knotted delta of diagonal lanes, the area had been a lively centre of
trade and illicit pleasures for centuries. From the 1500s, brothels
clustered between restaurants and theatres, opium parlours lurked
beneath lodging houses – a thrilling underworld that lured even
incognito emperors here.
If party officials come today, it would be to stock up on Rolex and
Zara, or maybe guzzle a Happy Meal. Extending south in a monumental
ceremonial axis, just below Tiananmen Square, now stretches a polished
open-air mall, where outlets of Nike and Starbucks, Costa and McDonalds,
stand behind pantomime costumes of swooping roofs encrusted with gilded
signs and lurid mouldings.
Billboards declare the project is “respecting the city texture and
recasting the historical view,” as well as “restoring history's cultural
pulse”. But walking the street today, it feels a vapid gauntlet through
which replica trams now ferry tourists back and forth from H&M to
Häagen-Dazs.
It is the most visible example of what has happened in numerous
pockets of the old city over the last 10 years, as neighbourhoods have
been demolished and rebuilt in the name of heritage preservation. From
the shopping street of Nanluoguxiang near the Drum and Bell Tower in the north, to the alleys around the Sichahai
lakes, the areas designated for historic conservation have been
transformed into zombie recreations of themselves. Elsewhere, crumbling
courtyard houses have been wrapped in neat jackets but their squalid
innards left unchanged, adding a flimsy tourist-friendly veneer to give a
picturesque backdrop for lucrative hutong tours.
But in Dashilar, things seem to be going in a different direction.
Home to around 55,000 people over a square kilometre, it is one of the
most densely populated parts of Beijing – six times the average density.
It is also one of the most convoluted in terms of property ownership,
with only around 10% of buildings in the possession of the state-owned
developer, with the rest split between work units and private owners – a
situation further confused by multiple sub-letting and the
proliferation of illegally built structures within and on top of
courtyard houses. This has seen the built fabric of the area rapidly
decline, with little maintenance and upkeep of the properties due to
both unclear ownership and ongoing uncertainty about demolition.
“I'm longing to move out,” one elderly resident who has lived here
since the 1950s tells me. “But the amount of compensation they are
offering is far too little for me to find anywhere else to go.” It
sounds a familiar story, one that in the past would have ended with
forced eviction. But changes to property laws since 2008 have made it
harder for developers to expel residents, putting more power in the
individual owners' hands to demand higher prices. As a result, residents
now compete with their neighbours to be bought out at higher rates,
which is making Dashilar an increasingly divided place. But the deadlock
has a unexpected upside.
“This stalemate is providing an opportunity for the area to develop
in a slower, more beneficial way,” says Gaddes. The initial failure of
the Qianmen redevelopment – which was plagued with vacant units due to
inflated rents – gave the government cold feet about rolling the same
plan out across Dashilar. This hiatus gave BDI time to commission the
“nodal” Dashilar pilot strategy, developed by local architect Liang Jingyu
from 2011, which would facilitate several model projects in strategic
locations across the area – and show existing owners how investing in
their properties and businesses could help turn a profit and improve the
area. “We're trying to change the conversation from people holding out
for compensation, to wanting to invest and stay in their own community,”
says Gaddes. As the leader of the local Xicheng municipality puts it,
these pilot projects should be “like twinkling stars that grow by
themselves”.
One such twinkling star comes in the form of Lin Lin, the director of Jellymon,
a creative agency based in the neighbourhood, who recently sold her
flat in London to buy a 10-year lease on an art deco factory across the
street from her studio in Dashilar.
“I'm planning a holistic up-cycling experience,” she beams as she
leads me through her building site and up a ladder, in sequin-studded
platform heels, to the first floor, which she wants to transform into a
cocktail bar. Down below will be an organic supermarket and restaurant
themed around re-use. She is presenting the concept at BJDW by hosting a
performance banquet, in which every piece of a pig is used in what she
calls a “fusion of fine dining, taxidermy and product design."
Many locals turn up to watch the surreal occasion, happily stuffing
chunks of the pig into bags to take back home. It is hard, however, to
imagine how many of them will frequent Lin Lin's organic food shop when
there is a heaving farmer's market around the corner selling food for a
fraction of the price.
A project that looks a little more sensitively calibrated to the needs of locals is proposed by French designer Matali Crasset
a few streets away. Dressed in a red harlequin outfit and sharp bowl
haircut that gives her the look of a children's entertainer, she has
taken over a factory building for the week to run workshops with local
schoolchildren to imagine what the space might become.
“I was attracted to this building because it has the potential to
act as a public route, linking the two streets either side,” she says as
we walk through the building where she plans to install a “forest
crossing playground,” an undulating ramp dotted with cabins and
greenhouse spaces. For now, she has daubed bright graphic patterns on
the walls and built some temporary furniture, but if the plans go ahead,
it could be a useful social space for parents to bring their children
in an area that lacks such community facilities.
While well-meaning, many of the projects in the area seem to have mis-fired. Italian designer Luca Nichetto
has installed a number of coloured benches, designed to be moved and
flipped to act as stools or tables, inspired by watching locals move
their stools into shady spots along the streets. Yet their heavy
concrete construction means they can barely be lifted – instead, some
clever residents have taken them apart and are using their cylindrical
legs as plant pots.
Hong Kong-based designer Michael Young
has been commissioned to design a new public toilet, with a curvaceous
white-tiled shell that will arch over the new loos like a space-age pod.
It looks nice enough, but inside it will house four conventional
western cubicles, negating the fact that the current open squat-toilets
serve a key social role, where people chat between knee-high partitions.
Speaking to residents who have witnessed the Dashilar project evolve
over the last three years, there remains an understandable suspicion
about the developer's motives – with the precedent of Qianmen all too
fresh in the memory. Some question why they would be seeding designers
and new businesses in the area, if not as a form of cultural-led
gentrification, with the ultimate aim of attracting a more upmarket
resident. Others are more hard-nosed: the incremental improvement of the
neighbourhood makes demolition less likely, and thus threatens their
chances of being bought out. Many would happily see the place razed if
given the means to move on to better conditions – and they are not blind
to the fact that these crumbling lanes represent some of the most
expensive real-estate in Beijing.
He Shuzhong, founder of the Beijing Cultural Heritage Protection Centre – which recently wrote a furious letter to the RIBA
condemning Zaha Hadid's Galaxy Soho mega-mall for destroying an area of
hutongs – has little time for the Dashilar plans, seeing the nodal
strategy as no different to what happens elsewhere, only disguised in
more palatable rhetoric.
"The developers want to be seen as gentlemen who understand the local
history very well," he says. "But at the same time, they are trying to
make Dashilar high-end, with new, bigger, brighter buildings. They
despise local residents and the non-wealthy and want to move them all
out."
"It is also difficult to distinguish who is the development
businessman and who the local government officer," he adds. "They are
almost a compound body – they are developers when they need to make
money, and they are government officials when they need the power."
The conflict between the project's ambition and the reality on the
ground is brought into no sharper focus than at No 30 Yaowu Hutong,
where Taiwanese practice Open Union Studio has set up camp.
“We wanted to create a social space that the community could share,”
says architect Hai Teng, showing me around a series of wooden house-like
frames he has erected on the rooftop, overlooking a courtyard filled
with a jumble of jerry-built out-buildings, where six families totalling
15 people currently live. “The neighbours here are not so friendly to
each other, so we wanted to make a space that they could use together.”
The architects were originally intended to occupy the empty first
floor level of the building, which extends along the streetfront in a
long glazed gallery, for up to two years. But when the downstairs
residents caught wind of the fact this space was going to be unlocked,
they said they would move in themselves and stop the practice from
taking up residence. As a result, the designers are now on the rooftop
in two temporary tents. “If we stay here and get to know them, we hope
they will change their minds,” says Hai. “Most architecture and design
exhibitions waste so much money, so we wanted to do something useful.”
Bert de Muynck, a Belgian architect who has carried out extensive
research on the Dashilar initiative with Mónica Carriço at the Moving Cities
think-tank, has mixed feelings about the outcome so far. “It is a brave
attempt to do something different after the failures of places like
Qianmen,” he says. “People criticise those developments for creating
twee stage-sets for tourists – but we have to be careful Dashilar is not
just creating another kind of 'authentic' stage set for designers.” Full story click here